Why Reading Waves Matters
Understanding waves separates competent surfers from beginners. Learning to read the ocean means better wave selection, more rides, and safer sessions.
Wave Formation
Waves are created by:
- Wind over ocean creates swells
- Swells travel hundreds of miles
- Bottom contour shapes the wave
- Longer-period swells = better waves
Types of Breaks
Beach Break
Waves break over sand:
- Peaks shift with sand movement
- Generally safer for beginners
- Quality varies with sandbars
Point Break
Waves break along a headland:
- Long, predictable waves
- Break in one direction
- Often crowded when good
Reef Break
Waves break over coral or rock:
- Consistent, defined takeoff spot
- Often hollow and powerful
- More dangerous - shallow
Understanding Sets
Waves arrive in groups called sets:
- Typically 3-7 waves per set
- Lulls between sets
- Larger waves usually arrive first or last
- Watch several sets before paddling out
Choosing Your Wave
Look for:
- Clean, organized wave faces
- Waves that peel gradually
- Waves appropriate for your skill
- Uncrowded peaks
Understanding Conditions
Wind
- Offshore: Wind from land, creates clean waves
- Onshore: Wind from sea, messy waves
- Cross-shore: Sideways, variable effect
Tide
- Some spots work better at high tide
- Others need low tide
- Learn your local spot's preference
Reading the Lineup
- Watch where experienced surfers sit
- Note where waves break consistently
- Identify channels for easy paddle out
- Observe current direction
Safety Awareness
- Identify rip currents (dark, calm channels)
- Watch for hazards (rocks, jetties)
- Know your exit points
- Understand your limits